Line 28 is one of Lisbon's most famous rides. Here's how to make it worth your time — and what to skip.
Tram 28 is the most photographed thing in Lisbon and, in summer, one of the most crowded. The vintage yellow trams that run the route are genuinely old — many date from the 1930s — and the route itself, winding through Alfama, Graça, and Estrela, passes some of the city's most dramatic streets.
The problem is that most visitors try to ride it in the middle of the day in peak season, when the trams are packed and the queues at popular stops can run to forty minutes. The solution is simple: go early. The trams start running before 7am and the first few of the morning are nearly empty. You'll see the same streets, the same hills, the same views — but you'll have a seat, and the city will look the way it should.
The full route runs from Martim Moniz in the east to Campo de Ourique in the west and takes around forty minutes end to end. The most scenic section is between Graça and Largo das Portas do Sol in Alfama — narrow, steep, and if you're sitting by a window, you'll feel the buildings brushing past on both sides.
A standard metro/tram ticket covers the ride. You can buy one from the driver in cash or use the Viva Viagem card, which is cheaper per journey. The stop nearest to Angels Homes connects you directly to the historic centre without needing the metro at all.
One last thing: stand on the platform and watch the tram navigate the corners. The way the old cars handle the tight bends in Alfama — groaning and grinding but never stopping — is something that takes a few seconds to understand and then becomes genuinely impressive. It's worth watching even if you've already ridden the route.
By Angels Homes
